Blog - Make It With Leather

Neatsfoot oil is one of my favorite leather crafting agents. It's non-toxic, easy-to-use, and it doesn't cost much. Not only that, but it drastically improves the quality of my work. At this point, you're probably wondering, what is neatsfoot oil? Neatsfoot oil is a natural oil derived from the shin and foot bones of cattle. It's commonly used to condition, soften, and preserve leather products, enhancing their flexibility and durability without compromising the leather's integrity. What the Heck Is a Neat? - A Quick History Lesson When I heard the word neatsfoot oil for the first time, I immediately thought, "what the heck is a neat". A few Google searches later and I learned that the word neat was once an old English word for cattle. Ah, now it makes sense. Neatsfoot oil has been used for hundreds of years and it's made from the feet and the shins of cows so the name couldn't be any more basic. If neatsfoot oil were invented last year we'd have just named it "cowsfoot oil". Why Cows, Though? – A Deep Dive into Functionality Now that we’ve cleared up the naming mystery, you might be thinking, "Of all the animals, why use cows' feet and shins?" Cows, being robust animals, have fats in their lower limbs that are resistant to water. And as anyone who's ever spilled coffee on their favorite leather bag knows, water is leather’s arch-nemesis. So, using oil derived from cows? Brilliant! It's nature's way of giving our leather items a fighting chance against those accidental spills. A Time-Tested Friend of Craftsmen Centuries ago, neatsfoot oil was used on everything from blacksmith aprons to gun holsters, and leather saddles. It worked great then and it still works great. Fast forward to today, and while most of us aren’t spending our days blacksmithing or riding horses, we still love our leather goods. Whether it's your beloved leather jacket, your trusty old boots, or the leather wallet you bought twenty years ago, they all benefit from a good rub-down with neatsfoot oil. Why Use Neatsfoot Oil Using neatsfoot oil offers a range of benefits, especially when it comes to leather care. Here are 7 great reasons to use neatsfoot oil on your leather: Conditioning and Softening: Neatsfoot oil deeply penetrates leather fibers, restoring natural oils that may have been lost over time. This results in softer, more supple leather. Enhancing Durability: Regular application of neatsfoot oil can prevent leather from becoming brittle or cracking. It maintains the strength and elasticity of the leather, ensuring a longer lifespan for your leather products. Water Resistance: Neatsfoot oil provides a degree of water resistance to leather, which can help protect it from minor spills or exposure to moisture. However, it's important to note that it won't make leather completely waterproof. Natural and Non-Toxic: Unlike some leather conditioners that contain synthetic chemicals or petroleum by-products, neatsfoot oil is natural and non-toxic, making it a safer choice for both the user and the environment. Improving Appearance: Applying neatsfoot oil can revitalize the look of dull or aged leather, giving it a refreshed and slightly darker finish. Flexibility Maintenance: Neatsfoot oil ensures that leather remains flexible without becoming overly soft. This is particularly important for items like saddles or leather tools that require a balance of flexibility and firmness. Cost-Effective: A little goes a long way with neatsfoot oil, making it a cost-effective solution for leather maintenance. Just keep in mind that, it's essential to ensure that you're using pure neatsfoot oil and not compound versions that might contain other oils or additives. Pure neatsfoot oil will provide the best results for leather care. The Downsides of Using Neatsfoot Oil Before you go and wipe all of your leather items down with neatsfoot oil, you should know that there are some drawbacks to using it. Here are some of the downsides to using neatsfoot oil: Darkening Effect: Neatsfoot oil can darken some types of leather. While this might be desirable for certain items, it might not be ideal if you're trying to maintain the original color of a leather product. Over-softening: If applied excessively, neatsfoot oil can make leather too soft, compromising its strength and structure. This could be problematic for items that rely on maintaining a certain level of firmness, like saddles. Potential for Rot: Excessive use or not allowing the leather to properly breathe after application can trap moisture, leading to mold growth or rot over time. Not Suitable for All Leathers: Some leather products, especially those with a sealed or painted surface, might not respond well to neatsfoot oil. It's always best to test a small, inconspicuous area first. Attracts Dust: Oily surfaces can attract dust and dirt. If the leather isn't periodically cleaned after applying neatsfoot oil, it can lead to a buildup of grime. Adulterated Versions: The market has compound neatsfoot oils mixed with other cheaper oils or additives, which may not provide the desired benefits and could potentially harm the leather. It's vital to ensure you're using pure neatsfoot oil. Allergies: While rare, some individuals might be allergic to components in neatsfoot oil and can experience skin reactions upon contact. Odors: Neatsfoot oil has a distinct smell. I don't mind it and it dissipates quickly but it is something to keep in mind. Given these potential drawbacks, it's always a good idea to research and, if possible, consult with experts or manufacturers before using neatsfoot oil on valuable or delicate leather items. When To Use Neatsfoot Oil When I'm leathercrafting, I generally use neatsfoot oil before adding water and alcohol-based dyes to my projects. I do this for two reasons. The first is that it helps the dye penetrate the leather more thoroughly. The second reason is that it helps keep the leather from drying out. This isn't as big of an issue with oil-based dyes but it definitely is with the alcohol-based ones. I'll use the neatsfoot oil again after I've dyed the project and will let it dry before finishing the project off with a sealer. What if you aren't dyeing your project? In this case, you could just put one coat of neatsfoot oil on or you could potentially skip this step altogether. Here are some other times you might want to use neatsfoot oil: New Leather Items: Before using a new leather item, especially if it feels a bit stiff, you can apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil to soften it and make it more pliable. Periodic Maintenance: Leather dries out over time, especially in certain climates. Apply neatsfoot oil once or twice a year, or whenever the leather begins to look or feel dry, to help maintain its suppleness. After Cleaning: If you've cleaned your leather item, especially if using a leather cleaner that might strip natural oils, it's a good time to apply neatsfoot oil to replenish lost oils. Restoring Old Leather: If you've got old leather items that have become dry, brittle, or have lost their luster, neatsfoot oil can be used to rejuvenate them. Weather Exposure: If a leather item has been exposed to harsh weather conditions, especially rain or snow, once it's dry, you can apply neatsfoot oil to ensure it remains conditioned. Tack and Saddlery: Horse tack, saddles, and other equestrian equipment benefit from regular applications of neatsfoot oil, especially if they're used frequently. After Exposure to Salt: If leather items, like shoes or boots, are exposed to salt (e.g., during winter in areas where roads are salted), it's crucial to clean off the salt and apply neatsfoot oil to prevent the leather from drying out and cracking. Prevent Cracking: For leather items that bend or flex regularly, like belts or saddles, applying neatsfoot oil can help prevent cracks from forming in stress points. Before Storing: If you're going to store a leather item for an extended period, apply a light coat of neatsfoot oil to ensure it doesn't dry out while in storage. Remember to always do a patch test on an inconspicuous area before applying neatsfoot oil, especially if it's your first time using it on that particular item. Some leathers may darken or react differently than expected. Also, keep in mind that a project that has been sealed isn't really going to absorb the oil and it shouldn't need it anyway as the sealant should be keeping moisture from both entering and leaving your leather. How To Use Neatsfoot Oil Neatsfoot oil is pretty easy to use. I just grab a wool dauber, dip it into the bottle, and apply it to the leather. If the leather has already been dyed, I may pour the oil onto a piece of cloth and then use that to apply the oil instead. This is because I don't want to dip a dauber back into my jar after it's gotten some dye on it. Either way, I'll rub the oil in with a shop cloth when I'm done. Here's a simple step-by-step guide for those who want a bit more details on how to use their neatsfoot oil: Clean the Leather: Before applying any conditioner or oil, ensure the leather is clean. Use a soft brush to remove dust and debris. For a deeper clean, dampen a cloth with water (optionally mixed with mild soap) and gently wipe the leather's surface. Make sure the leather is dry before applying the oil. Patch Test: Especially if it's your first time using neatsfoot oil on a particular leather item, always conduct a patch test. Apply a small amount to an inconspicuous area and let it sit for a day. Check for any undesired changes in color or texture. Application: Pour a small amount of neatsfoot oil onto a clean, soft cloth or sponge. Using circular motions, gently rub the oil into the leather's surface. It's better to apply multiple light coats rather than one heavy coat. Absorption: Allow the leather to absorb the oil. This can take several hours to a day, depending on the leather type and the environment. If the leather still feels overly oily after this time, you can wipe off the excess with a clean cloth. Reapplication: Depending on the leather's condition and your desired results, you might want to apply a second or third coat. Always wait until the previous coat has been fully absorbed before reapplying. Polishing (optional): After the leather has absorbed the neatsfoot oil and dried, you can polish it with a soft brush for a shine, if desired. Regular Maintenance: Depending on the wear and environmental conditions your leather is exposed to, you might need to reapply neatsfoot oil periodically. For items in regular use, a light application every few months can be beneficial. Storage: If you've applied neatsfoot oil to items that you're planning to store, ensure they're kept in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. A few things to remember: Avoid Over-Application: Too much oil can over-soften the leather or create a residue that attracts dirt and dust. It can also clog leather pores, leading to rot over time. Pure vs. Compound: Always ensure you're using pure neatsfoot oil and not a compound version that might have additives or other oils. Protect your Working Area: Neatsfoot oil can stain certain surfaces or fabrics. Make sure to protect your workspace or lay down a protective layer like newspaper or plastic. Alternatives to Neatsfoot Oil The main alternative to neatsfoot oil is mink oil. It's the closest thing to neatsfoot oil but it does have some advantages as well as some disadvantages so it's worth reading up on. Here is a list of ten alternatives to neatsfoot oil: Mink Oil: Derived from the fatty layer under mink skin, mink oil conditions leather and offers some water resistance. However, it can darken some types of leather. Lanolin: A natural fatty substance derived from sheep's wool, lanolin is a soft, waxy substance that can soften and condition leather. Beeswax: Often used in combination with other oils, beeswax can provide a protective layer on leather, giving it some water resistance. It is thicker and can be used for sealing edges or making leather items more rigid. Coconut Oil: This natural oil can condition leather, but it's essential to use it sparingly to avoid oversaturation. It may also darken leather. Jojoba Oil: Jojoba oil is a wax ester that closely resembles the natural oils in leather. It can be an effective conditioner, but like other oils, it can darken leather. Vegetable Oils (like Olive Oil): While these can condition leather, they're not recommended for long-term use as they can become rancid over time, potentially damaging the leather and emitting a foul odor. Commercial Leather Conditioners: These products are often a mix of oils, waxes, and other ingredients tailored for specific types of leather or uses. Brands like Lexol and Leather Honey are well-regarded in the leather care community. Saddle Soap: Often used for cleaning, saddle soap also contains ingredients that condition and protect leather. Tallow: Historically, tallow, or rendered animal fat, was used to condition leather. While it can make leather supple, it can also attract bacteria and become rancid over time. Synthetic Conditioners: There are numerous synthetic leather conditioners on the market, some of which are designed to replicate the effects of natural products without altering the color or texture of the leather. If you're new to leatherworking I'd personally recommend trying neatsfoot oil first but feel free to give the others a try as you gain more experience. You can pick up a bottle of the neatsfoot oil brand that I use through this link.