Learning how to cut leather is often the first step to becoming a leather worker and for good reason. Nobody wants to cut into an expensive piece of leather only to end up quickly ruining it – which can totally happen.
But don’t worry, in this post, I’ll go over all the different ways to cut leather in a way that makes sense and looks professional. So, by the end of this, you’ll be all set to handle leather like a pro and create fantastic things without any stress about making mistakes.
The Quickest Way to Get Started
I could start this post off with a massive list of the different ways to cut leather, but I don’t want to scare you off before you get started. Instead, here is the quickest way that I know how to cut leather.
- Step 1: Place your leather on a cutting board or a self-healing cutting mat.
- Step 2: Grab a t-square. If you’re using a self-healing mat with lines on it, you can just use a ruler.
- Step 3: Get a utility knife or craft knife. Make sure you have a new blade so that it’s sharp.
- Step 4: Measure out the leather you want to cut and gently use your knife to mark the cut lines.
- Step 5: Use your knife to cut into the leather. For thick pieces, you may need to make several passes.
Your leather has now been cut. I know it sounds almost too easy, but with just a few simple tools, you can make the basic cuts that you need to make a lot of different projects.
Of course, this isn’t the only way to cut leather, and different types of cuts will require more tools and more advanced techniques. If you’re excited to get started though, this is enough to get you started.
Feeling confident about making those initial cuts? You’re off to a great start! You can even bookmark this page and practice these basic cutting steps right away. However, if you’re eager to explore more ways to elevate your leatherworking skills, keep reading to learn about the techniques and tools that you can use to take your leather projects to the next level.
Different Ways to Cut Leather
When we talk about how to cut leather, we need to go over the different ways you might want to cut it. Are you just looking to cut out a few squares to make a wallet? Do you want to cut the edges to make the leather thinner? Will the cuts be straight or do you need to round out the edges?
Here is a quick list of some of the different types of leather cuts you might come across. Again, don’t worry as we’ll go over each of these methods in detail throughout this page as well as the rest of this website.
- Scissors: For lightweight leathers, a good pair of sharp scissors can do the job. It’s essential they be sharp to ensure a clean cut.
- Utility Knife: This is a common tool used for cutting leather, especially for straight cuts. Always ensure the blade is sharp.
- Rotary Cutter: Provides a clean and precise cut, especially useful for long straight lines or curves.
- Swivel Knife: A specialized leather tool used for carving and cutting designs into leather.
- Leather Shears: Heavy-duty scissors specifically designed for cutting leather.
- Die Cutting: This uses specialized metal shapes (dies) and a press to cut out specific shapes from the leather, especially useful for repetitive patterns.
- Laser Cutting: A high-tech method that uses lasers to cut leather. It offers precision and the ability to produce intricate designs, but the edges might get a burnt look.
- Band Knife: A continuous band of sharp metal that’s perfect for bulk cutting in industrial settings.
- Clicker Press: Used in conjunction with metal dies to cut out specific shapes, especially in industrial production.
- Water Jet Cutting: Uses a high-pressure jet of water to cut through leather. It’s less common but can offer precision without the risk of burning the leather.
- Punches: These can range from small hole punches for belts or lacing to larger punches used for making specific shapes or patterns.
- Skiving Knife: While primarily used to thin out edges or specific areas of leather, it can also be used for cutting when required.
- Chisels: For making straight cuts or decorative edges. These are often used in conjunction with mallets.
- Draw Gauge: Used to cut strips of leather, like for belts or straps.
- V-gouge: Used for making channels in the leather or for decorative purposes, but can also cut through thin leather.
When cutting leather, it’s always a good idea to first mark your cut with a scratch awl or a pen on the reverse side to ensure precision. Also, remember to always keep your tools sharp. Dull tools can lead to rough or jagged edges and can also cause the leather to stretch or deform.
How to Cut Leather with Scissors
Cutting leather with scissors is one of the simpler methods, especially for lightweight leathers or for quick projects. Here’s a step-by-step guide to help you get a clean cut:
- Choose the Right Scissors: Not all scissors are suitable for cutting leather. Opt for a sharp, heavy-duty pair or leather shears, specially designed for the task. The sharper the scissors, the cleaner the cut.
- Prepare the Leather:
- Clean the leather to ensure no dust or debris is on the surface.
- If the leather is particularly stiff or curly, you might want to dampen it slightly (using a sponge or spray bottle) to make it more pliable. Let the leather sit for a few minutes after dampening.
- Mark the Cut:
- Always measure and mark before you cut. Use a scratch awl to lightly mark the leather.
- Cutting the Leather:
- Begin at one end of your marked line and cut slowly and steadily.
- Keep the scissors’ blades at a right angle to the leather for a straight, perpendicular cut.
- Don’t force the scissors through the leather; let the sharpness of the blade do the work. If you’re having to exert a lot of force, it’s time to sharpen or change your scissors.
- Try to make continuous cuts without stopping, as this will produce the smoothest edge.
- Clean Up the Edges:
- After cutting, you may notice some rough or uneven edges. You can smooth these out with sandpaper or an edge beveler.
- Once the edges have been sanded you can create a professionally finished look by burnishing.
Tips:
- Always cut in a well-lit area to ensure you’re seeing your marks and cuts clearly.
- Practice on scrap pieces first if you’re new to cutting leather.
- Always take safety precautions. Leather can be tough, and using force can sometimes lead to slips or accidents.
By following these steps and maintaining patience and precision, you can achieve neat and clean cuts in leather using scissors.
How to Cut Leather With a Rotary Cutter
Using a rotary cutter can be an excellent way to achieve clean and straight cuts on leather, especially for long lines or curves. Here’s how to do it:
- Select the Right Rotary Cutter: There are various sizes available, but a medium-sized rotary cutter (around 45mm) is versatile for most leatherwork tasks.
- Prepare Your Workspace:
- Use a cutting mat beneath the leather. This protects your workspace and the blade of the rotary cutter.
- Ensure the workspace is well-lit.
- Prepare the Leather:
- If it’s curly or stiff, you might want to dampen it slightly to make it more manageable. Allow it to sit for a few minutes after dampening.
- Lay the leather flat on the cutting mat.
- Mark Your Cut:
- Use a ruler, straight edge, or template and a chalk or an erasable pen to mark the leather. Marking on the reverse side (suede side) can prevent visible marks on the finished side.
- Cutting the Leather:
- Place a metal ruler or straight edge along the line you intend to cut, ensuring it’s secure.
- Hold the rotary cutter like a pizza cutter, with the handle in the palm of your hand and your index finger on the blade’s guard.
- Begin at one end and push the rotary cutter away from you along the ruler or straight edge, applying even pressure. Make sure the blade stays flush against the edge guide.
- For curves, move the cutter slowly, ensuring it stays on the marked path.
- Safety Precautions:
- Always retract the blade or use the safety guard when the cutter isn’t in use.
- Keep your fingers away from the blade’s path and the rotary cutter’s rolling direction.
- Replace the blade once it becomes dull. A sharp blade ensures clean cuts and reduces the need for excessive pressure, which can be dangerous.
- Clean and Finish the Edges:
- If you have uneven or rough spots after cutting, you can smooth them out using sandpaper, an edge beveler, or burnishing tools.
Safety Precautions:
- Always retract the blade or use the safety guard when the cutter isn’t in use.
- Keep your fingers away from the blade’s path and the rotary cutter’s rolling direction.
- Replace the blade once it becomes dull. A sharp blade ensures clean cuts and reduces the need for excessive pressure, which can be dangerous.
Remember to always take your time when cutting, especially if you’re new to using a rotary cutter. Practicing on scrap leather pieces can help you get the feel of the tool and improve your precision over time.
How to Cut Leather with a Swivel Knife
A swivel knife is primarily used for carving or embossing designs onto leather, rather than cutting all the way through. The swivel knife allows for intricate patterns and details to be added to the leather surface. However, if you’re looking to make deep cuts or grooves with a swivel knife, here are the steps:
- Choose the Right Swivel Knife:
- Ensure your swivel knife is sharp and the blade is appropriate for the thickness and type of leather you’re working with. There are different blade shapes, including straight, angled, and filigree, among others.
- The knife should fit comfortably in your hand with the yoke resting on the knuckle of your index finger.
- Prepare the Leather:
- Leather should be cased, meaning slightly dampened, to make it easier to carve. Use a sponge or spray bottle to moisten the leather. It should be damp but not wet.
- Wait a few minutes after dampening until the leather returns to its natural color but retains a cool feel.
- Mark Your Design:
- Use a stylus, modeling tool, or light pencil to sketch the design or line you want to carve onto the leather.
- Alternatively, you can use tracing film and a stylus to transfer a printed design onto your leather.
- Position the Swivel Knife:
- Hold the knife upright with the yoke resting on your index finger’s knuckle. Your thumb and middle finger should grip the barrel, allowing the knife to swivel smoothly.
- Place the blade’s flat side against the leather where you want to start the cut.
- Begin Carving:
- Using even pressure, push the knife away from you to start the cut. Rotate the barrel of the knife with your thumb and middle finger to make curves.
- The depth of the cut should be consistent, typically around 1/16 to 1/8 inch deep, or just less than halfway through the leather.
- If the blade drags or is difficult to push, it may need to be sharpened.
- Finish the Design:
- Once you’ve finished your cuts, you can use various stamping or modeling tools to enhance and emboss your design further.
- Condition the Leather:
- After carving, apply a leather conditioner or finish to protect your design and keep the leather supple.
Remember that using a swivel knife requires patience and practice. Initially, it might feel challenging to control the knife’s direction or depth, but with time, you’ll develop better control and precision. Always practice on scrap leather to get a feel for the tool and refine your technique before working on a main project.
How to Cut Leather Using Leather Shears
Leather shears are essentially heavy-duty scissors designed specifically for cutting through leather, offering more strength and durability than regular scissors. They can handle thicker leathers and provide clean, straight cuts. Here’s how to cut leather with leather shears:
- Choose the Right Leather Shears:
- Ensure the shears are sharp and free from any nicks or damage. They should open and close smoothly without any resistance.
- Prepare the Leather:
- Lay the leather flat on a clean, hard surface. If the leather is curled or stiff, you might consider dampening it slightly to make it more manageable. Let it sit for a few minutes after dampening.
- Clean the leather to ensure there’s no dirt or dust on its surface.
- Mark the Cut:
- Always measure and mark before you cut. You can use a ruler and a chalk, an erasable pen, or a scratch awl to lightly mark where you want to cut. It’s often best to make these marks on the reverse side (suede side) of the leather to avoid visible marks on the finished side.
- Using the Shears:
- Begin at one end of your marked line. Open the shears widely and place them on the leather, aligning with your mark.
- Apply even pressure and close the shears in a smooth motion. Continue along the marked line.
- For the cleanest cut, try to use the full length of the shear blades with each cut rather than making many small snips.
- Hold the leather with your other hand but be sure to keep fingers clear of the shears’ path.
- Check and Finish the Edges:
- After making your cuts, examine the edges. If there are any minor uneven spots, they can be smoothed out using sandpaper, an edge beveler, or burnishing tools.
- Applying a leather edge paint or dye can give a finished look to your cut edges.
- Care for Your Shears:
- Always keep them clean and dry. Wipe them down after use.
- Store them in a closed position, ideally in a protective case or pouch.
- Sharpen them regularly to ensure they remain effective and provide clean cuts.
Using leather shears can be quite straightforward, but as with any tool, the key is practice. If you’re new to using shears, practice on some scrap leather first to get a feel for how they cut and to develop your technique.
How to Cut Leather with a Skiving Knife
A skiving knife is primarily used for thinning the edges or specific areas of leather to make it easier to fold, overlap, or join pieces without creating bulk. Skiving refers to the process of thinning the leather. However, a skiving knife can also be used for straight cuts, especially in areas that need precision.
Here’s how to cut or skive leather with a skiving knife:
- Choose the Right Skiving Knife:
- Ensure the knife is sharp and free from any nicks or damage. There are different styles of skiving knives, such as straight, curved, or Japanese-style, so choose one that you’re comfortable with.
- Prepare the Leather:
- Lay the leather flat on a clean, hard surface. A cutting mat or thick piece of glass can be ideal.
- If the leather is stiff, consider dampening it slightly to make it more pliable. Let it sit for a few minutes after dampening.
- Marking (if cutting through):
- If you’re making a full cut through the leather, mark where you want to cut using a chalk, an erasable pen, or a scratch awl. It’s often best to mark on the reverse side (suede side) of the leather.
- Skiving the Leather:
- Hold the knife at a shallow angle to the leather’s surface. The shallower the angle, the thinner the skive.
- Push or pull the knife away from you, slicing off a thin layer of the leather. The aim is to remove a consistent layer without digging into or gouging the leather.
- For consistent skives, it’s crucial to maintain the same angle and pressure throughout the skiving process.
- Cutting the Leather:
- If you’re using the skiving knife to cut through the leather, position the knife at the start of your marked line.
- Using even pressure, slice through the leather along the mark, ensuring the blade remains straight for a clean cut.
- Finishing:
- Check the edges after skiving or cutting. You can smooth out any rough or uneven areas using sandpaper or an edge beveler.
- If you’ve skived an edge for joining, you can now proceed to glue or stitch the leather pieces together.
- Maintain Your Skiving Knife:
- Regularly sharpen your knife to ensure it remains effective. A strop with honing compound can help maintain the blade’s edge between sharpenings.
- Clean the blade after use and store it safely to protect the edge and prevent accidents.
As with any leatherworking tool, practice is essential. If you’re new to skiving or using a skiving knife for cuts, always practice on scrap leather to refine your technique and get a feel for the tool.